Wrinkles and spots are the price we pay for those afternoons on the beach 20 years ago. A popular remedy is skin creams and lotions containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), derived from fruit and milk sugars. AHA treatment is similar to the "chemical peels" that doctors have used for years. Basically, they cause the top layer of skin to peel off, revealing a fresher-looking layer beneath.
Since they became widely available in 1992, the AHA lotions have been wildly popular. And there's some evidence that they may actually help damaged skin. Unfortunately, there's also lots of very solid evidence that thousands of people are suffering adverse reactions ranging from redness and swelling all the way up to bleeding, rash and skin discoloration.
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration estimates that there have been at least 10,000 adverse reactions so far. Of even more concern is what the long-term effects of these substances might be. One study found that AHAs increase the skin's sensitivity to sun, which could lead to accelerated aging of the skin and even to skin cancer.
"AHAs are unlike anything else ever introduced into the consumer market on such a wide scale. They are not your traditional cosmetics," FDA's John Bailey said.
The FDA is working on a study that's expected to be complete in 2000. Until then, the agency advises extreme caution in using AHAs and follow these precautions:
- Avoid the sun whenever possible;
- Use adequate sun protection;
- Report adverse reactions to your physician AND to the FDA, which wants all the information it can get.
The FDA advises using only lotions and creams that meet these standards:
- AHA concentration of 10 percent or less;
- A pH of 3.5 or greater;
- Formulated to protect the skin from increased sun sensitivity.
For more information, check the FDA Web site or call the FDA's Office of Consumer Affairs, 800 532-4440.
